Man, do we have our finger on the pulse of American cocktail culture. Today’s New York Times Dining section has a feature on absinthe, Absinthes to Go Mad Over.

Consider the cast of mythological absinthe drinkers: the vulnerable painter and poet, too sensitive for this mean old world; the tormented soul, unable to snap out of his self-loathing; the rakish hedonist, seeking one big, lurid rush; the wealthy dilettante, dipping a toe in bohemia; and of course, all manner of willing women.

But now absinthe is legal again, and the romance of belle époque naughtiness must give way to what’s in the glass. Pull over, you disillusioned dreamers: with no laws to break, no frissons of danger, let the mystification stop right now.

They give the rundown on what makes absinthe absinthe, and taste 20 of them, making recommendations. Don’t forget to check out the related article on food pairing for absinthe.

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